![]() ![]() The coin door is still a cruddy mess, but now everything works. I added a surplus dollar mech, adjusted the switch and I was good to go. After removing the decades-old tape I had a nice S.B.A drop window. The dollar slot had been disabled by wrapping the coin drop window with electric tape. ![]() Unfortunately, none of this worked because the coin lockout driver Q19 was bad (see board repair above). Coining the game is part of the fun and I keep a big dish of quarters nearby. Recommended board mods: TP1 jumped to TP3 (red arrow), negative lead of C23 jumped to ground trace (blue circle) and negative lead of C26 jumped to ground trace (yellow arrow).Ġ5/10/09: Coin door repair. Old, busted up J3 (left) and new connectors (right). However, my board has a trace connecting all of J3 pins 18-24. Note: recommends NOT connecting the +43 volt ground (J3 pins 23-24) to the +5 volt ground (J3 pins 18-22). While I was at it, I also made the ground modifications as recommended at. I also replaced Q19, the coin lockout driver. None of the connectors or pins looked great so I pulled the board and replaced all the J1-J5 header pins and connectors. Connector J3 was broke in half and two of the J3 pins were bypassed with alligator jumpers. Blue circles indicate the old battery connections.Ġ4/26/09: Solenoid driver board repair. I folded down the TP6 wire hoop so as to not interfere with the new larger chip (yellow arrow). Assuming the old socket is healthy, this is a plug and play modification. The chip comes with a small circuit board such that the wider new chip can piggyback on the old narrower socket. Shown above is the new memory chip (red arrow). Instead of implementing a new battery backup circuit, I decided to replace the old RAM chip (which can be unreliable anyway) with a modern non-volatile memory chip from Tom Callahan at. Not only are some game settings lost when the power is turned off and back on, but the game itself could act squirrelly from semi-corrupted RAM data (I guess). But no battery replacement circuit was ever implemented to maintain the volatile RAM. Some previous person had removed the NiCad battery from MPU before it could leak and destroy the board. Why would someone scrap the knocker out of a perfectly good game? ![]() Solution: Rewire miswired left coin switch.ġ2/27/08: Replaced missing knocker assembly. Problem: Inoperative center and right coin switch. The repair manuals also suggest that this problem could be caused by corrupt RAM data (see below). Solution: Cleaned kicker assembly and adjusted outhole switch. If the ball rolled back onto the outhole switch, the game became confused. The outhole kicker was unreliably kicking the second ball over the trough hump. Problem: Game serves both balls to the shooter lane. Solution: This was another leaky/intermittent switch cap on the tube exit switch (Note: The exit switch stops the background sound before the kickout saucer resets the background sound). Problem: Background sound randomly stops during heavy ball action. Replaced power cord.ġ2/19/08: Problem: Stuck shooter lane switch. ![]()
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